The clock struck 12. While fire crackers must have been set off in Chinatown, the only fireworks I witnessed existed in floods of videos, photos and greetings on WhatsApp. The Year of the Rat had arrived.

Except that in my time zone, it was still 11pm on 24 Jan. 

It has been years since I skipped celebrating the Lunar New Year back home. The last three times were when I studied abroad. I remember the shocking realisation I had that lohei is a traditional Singaporean/Malaysian affair, and then the newfound appreciation for globalisation that led these cuisines to Chinatown in New York and London. The buzz of lohei marks a climax of the celebrations, perhaps only second to the receipt of red packets for singles.

It was past midnight by the time I reached the hotel. Happy Lunar New Year (for real)!

Painting Bangkok’s Chinatown Red

Red defined the streets of Bangkok’s Chinatown. Even my pink shirt seemed like a misfit. What struck us was the number of stalls selling qipao tops, and the number of people strutting the streets in what we would consider a stifling outfit for the unabating humidity. The Thais appeared to embrace tradition wholeheartedly, almost mocking at my weakened Oriental roots.

Road closures did not hinder the throngs of people who made offerings at the temples, lined the streets for snacks and waited patiently for Her Royal Highness Princess to grace the occasion. Wonton mee, roasted meats, mochi, boat noodles, pad thai, steamed coconut pudding, grilled seafood, Thai iced tea… With stalls packed next to each other along the entire Yaowarat Road, it’ll be difficult not to be stuffed before you reach the end of it. Four coconut puddings and a double scoop ice cream cup were enough to satiate us without even having lunch.

And then we joined the wait, strategically positioning ourselves near the entrance that would make for a quick escape. It took a good two hours before we even caught a glimpse of a carriage, but our feet would not have given in to this once-in-a-lifetime experience. The Princess’ wave arrived a half hour later, as we witnessed the euphoria and immense respect that the Thais accorded her with.

Our stomachs finally sounded a torturous rumble. So the feasting begins!

Caffeine at Brave Roasters

Disappointed by the lack of breakfast food, we were momentarily fooled by the selection of pastries. The meringue on the lemon cake was a tad too sweet, and the buttered banana bread was a tad too dry. The orange cake emerged the winner, moist and bursting with citrus flavours. But the smooth coffee and the spacious interior sold. Housed on the 3rd floor of Siam Discovery, the furniture section, it is no wonder that this cafe lures with tasteful designs. Window seats cater for those who desire some me-time, while long benches facilitate work meetings. Then you get the in-betweens who would be content with any other seat, as each table is amply distanced from one another.

Almond Croissant at Host x AMBER

The sunlight shone in, casting a pristine glow on its white interior. The bakes on display looked even more alluring – the sophistication in its decoration perfectly contrasted the cafe’s minimalism, as though effort is concentrated on crafting the finest food than the most Instagrammable background. We thought the almond croissant was absurdly priced and ordered the mains, but eventually caved in when the cream cheese bagel looked a little too meagre. Were we surprised by the flakiness of the croissant, which paired well with the sweet almonds on top. That’s worth the price. A double serving even.

Cakes at Paris Mikki

The cakes never fail to tempt each time I trip down to Central Embassy. They glisten with joy, catching me in decision paralysis. It’s a matter of going for the eclair, the all-in chocolate, the fruity, the fusion, or just one of everything. I guess that’s when travelling with big families would benefit. In need of sugar but not something that screams of chocolate, I dived into the Suzuki – an exquisite blend of coffee, walnut and caramel. The gooey saltiness kept me going for more, without the need to pause for a sip because it was just that addictive.

Fusion Thai Grub at Lady Nara

Green curry quinoa. Zero carb pad thai. Tom yum pasta. Here’s evidence that you don’t necessarily have to load up on the calories to taste good fusion Thai food – you just need to deal with the spice. But make your selection cautiously and you’ll leave with all that delight without that tingle. Judging from the vacant seats on a weekend evening, this restaurant seems severely underrated. The decor pleased, the service was pleasant, and the meals were dished out quickly and delectably, so we soaked in the peaceful ambience and savoured what lay before us – a veggie strand at a time.

Avo-Egg Toast at Breakfast Story

Hidden on the second floor of Mahatun Plaza, this cafe is meant for the observant few who make it up the stairway next to La Monita. Make a left, and you’ll see Breakfast Story greet you at the end of the corridor. I was set on the avo-egg toast for its raving reviews, though I ventured into the charcoal latte to my dismay. I tackled what looked like half a pound of avo with one pound of egg chunked in the middle of two slabs of buttered toast, with sesame sauce salad on the side. The need for the satay stick shows how generous the serving is. Otherwise, the toast is just not gonna hold all that goodness. Fit for an American-sized brunch, this was one meal that I didn’t waste a single bite.


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